By Åsa Montpaz



Estelle was laying down on her yoga mat watching the ceiling fan’s rhythmical spinning while listening to sounds from outside their house. The streets of Vasant Vihar were slowly getting ready for a new day. She heard voices, barking dogs and honking rickshaws. The intensity was yet to begin.
“Madam, Madam, there is someone at the door,” Sabeena called from the hallway.
“Who is it?” Estelle asked and went to the door.
“Some people are here to repair the internet and Cable-TV.”
“Ok, let them in and I’ll be there in a minute.”
Estelle changed into something more presentable than her sweaty hot pants and short top that she had worn during her daily yoga practice. She grabbed a wrinkled batik tunic with matching pants. When she came out, the Cable guys were waiting in the hall.
“Good morning, Madam. We got a call from your husband yesterday about a problem with the Internet and Cable-TV connection,” said one of the men dressed in black trousers that had been cut too short, and a knitted brown and orange jumper. There were four other men standing beside him and they stared at her as if she was from another planet.
 “Yes, the internet and Cable TV stopped working yesterday morning.”
 “Don’t worry Madam, we’ll fix it. I need to go up and check on the roof,” he said. Yes of course they needed to go up on the roof. She knew that already because it wasn’t the first time they had come to fix the problem this month, neither the second nor the third.
“Sabeena, can you show them the way up to the roof please?”
“Yes, Madam.” Sabeena rushed out of the kitchen.
Challo!’ She commanded in Hindi and the men followed her.

Estelle went back into her bedroom to take a shower. As she entered the bathroom she watched her body in the newly polished mirrors with a content smile. The months of daily yoga practice had given her the result she wanted. Her love handles were almost gone. She felt good, and started to hum as she turned on the water and waited for the water to get hot.
“It’s raining Men Hallelujah it’s raining Men,” her singing intensified. The mirror got all foggy and when she couldn’t see her dancing body any longer she was ready to step into the shower. She was just about to put her foot into the pink bathtub but pulled it back quickly.
“Aaaah!” She screamed. In the bathtub were four cockroaches as big as rats, staring at her. She grabbed a towel.
“Sabeena!”
Luckily she had someone to take care of the cockroaches for her, because that was more than she could handle.


Estelle was laying on her bed relaxed after the cockroach incident, sipping on a fresh fruit and veggie juice. She browsed through an old Swedish newspaper that her husband had brought home from the embassy the day before.
There was an article about the Swedish crown princess’s wedding plans. Estelle smiled at the news. The princess’ boyfriend had been her former personal trainer and a gym owner. The Swedish people loved the fairytale of a traditional princess marrying a man from the ordinary people.
Estelle started to daydream about her trip back home to Sweden, about the food like whole wheat bread, tasty cheeses, fresh butter, Swedish salt licorices and chocolate. It made her mouth water. She was looking forward to seeing her friends, even though the main reason for the trip was to get their house rented out.
It was time to start packing since she was leaving tomorrow but she always found reasons not to pack her bags until the last minute. Tonight they were invited to their driver Asuman’s home to celebrate his 21th birthday together with his family.
“Madam, Madam.” Sabeena knocked on the door.
“Yes.”
“The cable guys are done and they want to talk to you.”
“Ok I’m coming,” she said.
The man in the brown and orange jumper looked a bit ragged. His face was pouring with sweat. His long brown piano fingers were holding a form in his hands which he wanted her to sign but she insisted on checking that everything was working first. As she switched on her computer she felt a current coming down her arm.
“Auch!” she said.
She turned to the man and asked.
“Why do I get an electrical shock when I use the computer and other electrical devices?”
“Yes, yes, Madame, no problem,” he said as if he couldn’t care less or didn’t understand her worries. His assistants behind him were now staring at her with open mouths.
There was internet connection and she was eager to check her e-mails. She logged in to her Hotmail account.
“Madam ok? Internet ok? No problem?”
“Yes it’s ok,” she mumbled as she opened an email from her best friend who wanted to know her arrival time two days later in Sweden. She wrote a quick reply saying that she would be busy during the first few days with her house but after that she would be available to see her.
“Madam, everything ok? He repeated.
“Oh sorry. Yes everything seems to work nicely,” she said. “But you need to show me how the Cable TV works. We can’t find the international channels which we’re paying for.”
She handed over the remote control and he started to flick through the channels. His assistants stopped staring at her and shifted their attention to the TV. He kept showing her the different channels and soon the men were all hypnotized by the television.
“This channel is very good, they show movies from Bollywood,” he said. ‘Don’t all channels do that,’ she thought.
They all laughed at a scene in the movie. A man in classic Santa suit who slipped on the stairs in front of a group of young women dressed in saris.
“Do you know Shah Rukh Khan?” He pointed to the actor who just slipped on the stairs in the movies. “He’s a great actor and dancer,” he said.
It really wasn’t funny but she felt as if she was hosting a movie night and the only thing missing was warm popcorn and drinks.
“Sorry, but can you please show me the international channels?” She asked but the men kept starring at the TV.
“The International channels!” She repeated.
“Oh, yes Madam no problem, just a moment.”
He finally let go of the Bollywood movie and showed her the location of the International channels starting from channel 850 and on. So that was why Estelle and her husband could never find them. They had given up long before browsing through hundreds of channels displaying miming and dancing Indian men with mustaches and pretty women in colorful saris pretending life was a big musical.
When the jumper man handed over the remote control, he stroked the backside of his hand on her breast. It took her by surprise, she wasn’t sure if it was intentional or an accident but either way it left her with a bitter taste in her mouth.


Estelle took the flower bouquet and the woolen sweater that was wrapped up in golden paper and went out the door to meet up with her husband who was waiting in the car. As she walked down the stairs from their apartment the warm humid air mixed with the fumes from Mrs. Singh’s dinner preparation, reminded her empty stomach that she hadn’t eaten anything since lunchtime. It smelled delicious.
Down at the gate Shawla, their guard, greeted her with a big smile.
“Good evening Madam.” He closed the gate behind her and ran to open the passenger door.
“Hi honey,” she said and kissed her husband on his dry lips.
“How was your day at work?” She asked.
“Ok,” he mumbled busy with his phone. “I still have to make some calls, write an email to the foreign ministry, and talk to the Landlords about…”
“Oh come on! It’s Friday and I’ve been waiting for your company all week,” Estelle said and took his face in her hands, smiled at him and kissed him again. But this time she didn’t let go of him as fast.
“Good evening Madam and Sir.” Asuman said as he jumped into the front seat, ready to take them to his house.
“Hi Asuman, Happy birthday!” She said and handed over the flowers and the golden wrapped gift.
“Thank you very much, Madam.”
The car rolled smoothly into the chaotic streets of New Delhi. Estelle loved looking out the car window, there was always something new and interesting to see. She saw entire families on motorbikes, skinny cows, rickshaws, people eating food and drinking chai teas, overcrowded buses, more people just sitting down watching other people, fabrics in beautiful colors, men walking holding hands and children playing.
When they stopped at a traffic light, beggars surrounded the car. Some days she ignored them and other days she couldn’t stop herself from giving away all her bills and coins. She saw a young girl, maybe four years old, with a little naked baby hanging on her hip, she wore threadbare, no shoes and had matted hair. They were walking around in the traffic, begging for money and food. Estelle took out her purse and handed over a bill to Asuman who immediately understood what to do and handed it to the girl.
Her husband said, “They’re just too many of them in this country, I can never get used to it.” She knew exactly what he meant, the overwhelming feeling of hopelessness.
“I hate watching this bloody mess. It’s like living in hell,” he continued.
Estelle took his hand in hers and the rest of the drive they just stayed silent.


“Ok. We need to park the car here to get to my house,” Asuman said. He jumped out and opened the door to let them out. It was in the middle of a market place with hordes of people, cows and strong odors.
“Do you live here?” Estelle said and looked around.
“No, we have to walk through the market to get to my house, Madam.”
The marketplace was full of activity and some of the vendors stopped in the middle of a deal just to watch them pass. They followed Asuman through the crowd. She could tell by his bouncy way of walking, swinging his skinny arms high like a happy child, that he was in a good mood. Estelle was intrigued to meet his family that she heard many stories about. Eventually they arrived at a grey building. Asuman turned around and gave them one of his big blinding smiles.
“This is where I live, on the second floor.”
When they walked up the stairs there were people everywhere, looking out through doors and windows, smiling, waving and greeting them. They noticed that it got darker and darker as they entered the building. When they reached his apartment he told them that there was no electricity at present but hopefully it would come back soon. Estelle had almost forgotten how it was for the majority of the population in India, since the embassy had installed a big generator as a back up for all the blackouts that went on every day in their building as well.
“Come on in,” he said and pointed his skinny arm into a dark room.
They were welcomed by a man and women sitting on the sofa.  
“These are my mom and dad,” Asuman said.
It was hard to see their faces in the dark but after a while they lit a few candles and her eyes got accustomed to the gloominess and she could see more and more details in the apartment. There were a lot of icons of the different Hindu Gods hanging on the walls and they had a miniature temple in a corner close to the kitchenette. Smoke from the lighted incense in the temple moved slowly through the apartment and made Estelle feel calm and peaceful.
After some time, Asuman’s brother and girlfriend showed up with food from McDonald’s. Estelle felt embarrassed. She knew that he would have spent a large part of his salary on food from McDonald’s because he believed that that was what they wanted to eat.
They ate together in the darkness and talked about Asuman’s desire to marry his girlfriend but this was creating problems for them because she was from a higher caste than him.
Estelle had a hard time understanding and accepting the caste system. She had once told her maid Sabeena about the time when she was a student and had worked as a baby sitter, a waitress and even a cleaner at a hotel to get money. Sabeena did not believe her. In India everything was different. According to the cast you get from birth, from your parents, you can only do certain types of jobs. It dictates where you live and who you can marry. Once you work as a cleaner, you will always clean, at least during this life.
Asuman’s brother served birthday cake and warm sweet chai tea in small cups. It was a memorable evening in the gloominess and Estelle was overwhelmed by the generosity of Asuman’s family. They bid farewell and as they walked down the stairs the lights came back, taking them by surprise.
“Ah electricity is back, perfect timing!” Asuman said and the three of them laughed. The only trace left from their visit was their laughter echoing in the grey building.


Estelle was packing her suitcase. She didn’t like packing, being forced to choose what to take and not to take. She always ended up with an overloaded suitcase, realizing she had packed for a month when she was going to be away for only a week.
“Madam, Madam. Ashok is here.” Sabeena knocked on her door.
“Ok, let him in and show him the broken lamps in the bathroom and kitchen please.”
“Yes Madam.”
Ashok was the light bulb man from the embassy. He came once a week to change any broken bulbs. When Estelle first arrived in India she thought her husband was joking when he told her Ashok’s job was to change light bulbs.
“I’ve been changing light bulbs all my life. How damned difficult can it be?” Estelle said and climbed a chair in the hallway and before she knew it the whole lamp fell down from the ceiling exposing four cables, like little worms looking at her curiously.


When everything was packed and ready, she went to the dining room. Sabeena had prepared a delicious lunch for her and then left for her daily break. Estelle liked having the apartment to herself even if it was only for an hour. Soon I’ll be back in Sweden she thought. It made her smile and once again her thoughts moved to her favorite foods and the sweets she was going to feast on.
Ding dong, the doorbell rang.
“Who is there?” She asked. No answer.
“Hallo, who is there?” She repeated, but still no answer.
She opened the door slowly and outside in the stairwell stood the old gardener, Anantha, who had come to water the balcony plants. He was a happy man and to Estelle he looked to be 100 years old. He reminded her of a baby bird all, skinny and fragile. He had watered plants in the building since decades back and telling him to stop doing so wasn’t an option when they moved in, even though she could easily do it herself. It was a matter of supporting this humble man to get some food for the day.


Asuman drove Estelle to the airport in the late afternoon. On the way she got a text from her husband,
‘Have a safe trip home. I’m really sorry that I can’t be with you on your special day but I promise to make it up to you as soon as you’re back. I Love you! Peter’
Peter was working really hard to prepare for the Swedish prime minister’s visit to India.
She felt sad that he couldn’t come with her this time but it was only for a week and she´d be busy getting their house in order for leasing.
Indira Gandhi international airport was always full of people and many of them were running around like lost tourists. She had read in the Times of India that more than fifty percent of Indian travelers were flying for the first time ever.
Luckily passport control and security check were both swift. When she arrived at her gate she sat down beside a family of four. The father spoke in English with his family and he soon included Estelle in their conversation.
He asked a lot of questions about her nationality, where she was traveling to, why she was traveling alone, if she was married, what her husband’s profession was and if she had any children. She politely replied to all his questions but after a while she took out her book in order to get some time to herself.
The man appeared not to have understood her intention and invited her to try his homemade vegetarian samosas that his cross-eyed wife had made earlier that day. Estelle took one, after all she was a bit hungry and although it was very hot and spicy, she ate it. Soon she felt her face go red and her mouth burned. She looked for her water bottle and remembered that she left it at the security check.


Estelle arrived at Stockholm-Arlanda airport after a dazed journey home. She got stomach cramps during the flight, which had made her use the airplane toilet frequently. At one point she gave up and decided to just stay in the toilet, until a Steward banged on the door calling out that there was a long line of people waiting to use the toilet.


As she walked out through the sliding glass doors, a cool wind wiped over her body. It felt welcoming and it was great to inhale the fresh crisp air. She waved down a taxi driver and within a couple of minutes they were on their way to her house. As she leaned back in the car her stomach began to cramp again and she knew she needed to go to the bathroom. She calmed herself with the thought of arriving home, and that she could finally use her own clean and spacious bathroom.
Estelle was looking through the car window. She saw trees, grass and the bushes that were beautifully colored in rich greens. Observing the fat healthy cows and horses munching on the lush pastures was a big contras to the skinny cows in the middle of Delhi’s chaotic traffic jams. In Sweden the drivers were predictable and well organized. Coming home from traveling was always like putting on a new pair of glasses and discovering her home from a different point of view. Things that she had always taken for granted had with time, become like precious stones.
Once again her stomach cramped but this time she had to use all her forces to hold everything back. She leaned forward to hug her knees tightly. That really helped release the tension in her belly.
“Are you okay?” Asked the taxi driver looking at her through the rear-view mirror.
“I’m fine thank you. Just a little bit tired after the trip,” she said with a crooked smile on her lips.
Soon she saw the sign ‘Brommaplan,’ which meant that they were getting closer to her house. They drove off the freeway. Estelle was praying intensely that the traffic would run smoothly, and luckily it was.
When she arrived home, she paid the taxi driver, took her luggage and walked as fast as she could to the gate. She noticed that the gate was open but she kept moving towards the main entrance. She was just waiting for the next stomach cramp, which could come any minute.
As she pulled out her keys she looked towards one of the windows and she thought she saw the curtain moved slightly. She told herself that she was just tired after the trip and that she needed to rest. She opened the main door, left the luggage just in front of it and didn’t even bother to close it behind her.
She walked quickly towards the bathroom door. She saw the curtain moving out of the corner of her eye and she heard a funny noise. Her stomach cramped as she grasped the bathroom door handle.
“SURPRISE!” said a big horde of people as the music from her stereo played “Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you, happy birthday…”
She turned around to meet all those familiar smiling faces and all she could do was to give her distorted smile back while she felt something warm slushy running down her legs. 


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